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Great Wall of Lights: China’s sea power on Darwin’s doorstep

The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman) The Chinese-flagged Zhong Yuan Yu 16 sails at dusk on the high seas near the Galapagos Islands on July 18, 2021. In the summer of 2020, hundreds of Chinese vessels were discovered fishing for squid near the long-isolated Galapagos Islands, a UNESCO world heritage site that inspired 19th-century naturalist Charles Darwin and is home to some of the world’s most endangered marine species, from giant tortoises to hammerhead sharks. (AP Photo/Joshua Goodman)