AP

Glitzy Valentino show sees Paris Fashion Week at fever pitch

Oct 2, 2022, 9:13 AM | Updated: Oct 3, 2022, 3:56 am

Georgia May Jagger poses for photographers upon arrival for the Givenchy ready-to-wear Spring/Summe...

Georgia May Jagger poses for photographers upon arrival for the Givenchy ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2023 fashion collection presented Sunday, Oct. 2, 2022 in Paris. (Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

(Photo by Vianney Le Caer/Invision/AP)

PARIS (AP) — Valentino’s Paris fashion show on Sunday saw snared lines of black cars dropping off battalions of celebrities who, amid the commotion, just couldn’t find the entrance.

Seated VIP guests were sweatily crammed in together inside the Le Marais venue, waiting as the show started an hour late. While outside, screaming members of the public braved the rain for hours just for a glimpse of their favorite stars, who included Zendaya, Naomi Campbell, Florence Pugh, Erykah Badu and Ashley Park.

Fever pitch like this at Paris ready-to-wear is reminiscent of the French capital’s pre-pandemic fashion scene — and one more visible sign the industry is buoyant again after the devastation caused by the coronavirus pandemic.

Here are some highlights of Sunday’s spring-summer 2023 collections in Paris:

VALENTINO’S REVEAL

“Cuts and transparencies reveal the persona,” the brand said of designer Pierpaolo Piccioli’s glitzy spring collection that mixed gimmicks with moments of thoughtful fashion skill.

Models with faces and necks completely covered in disturbing interlocking “V” make-up began the show, introducing the theme of the reveal.

The exploration of inside-out or back-to-front continued in a beautiful nude skin-like top with matching nude pants speckled sparingly with diaphanous plumes on model Anna Cleveland.

A coat had ostrich feathers peaking out from inside through the hems. The sides of some dresses were scooped out, while a dazzling purple sequined floor-length gown revealed the model’s flesh only at the back.

Yet at times it felt as if the lauded Italian designer may have tried to fit too much in. By outfit number 91, it also felt exhausting — with fashion insiders fidgeting for the show to wrap up.

The Valentino finale was the true reveal of the show, which was livestreamed: The models did not even walk past seated guests as usual, but straight outside to the cheering general public, making some inside feel superfluous.

RAIN ON GIVENCHY’S PARADE

Rain would normally be a good thing in the green thickets of the Jardin des Plantes, the gardens in central Paris.

For Givenchy’s outside runway, it was another story.

VIP guests including Olivia Rodrigo survived torrential downpours only thanks to helpers clutching transparent umbrellas. But the show had to go on. For Matthew M. Williams, a designer who has garnered lukewarm reviews of late, this collection was a little like crunch time.

For spring, the U.S. designer moved his street aesthetic in a dressier direction — likely trying to bring himself to the safer ground of the age-old house’s traditional aesthetic. He had some success.

An oversized tweed black bolero cut a creatively surreal silhouette atop a pencil-thin mini dress, twinned with Matrix-style shades. Elsewhere, features such as ruching on a silken top, or draping on a fluid skirt, resembled thick organic sinews or human ribs.

This felt like a good, gently transgressive, direction for the house immortalized by Audrey Hepburn’s LBD.

However, many of Williams’ design elements still felt out of place on the haute Paris runway, such as 90s low-slung cargo shorts that seemed unflattering, clashing with the black silken ruffled cuffs that dangled down.

THE ART OF THE INVITATION

The art of the chic invite is still very much a staple of the Paris luxury industry.

The little works of art sometimes provide a hint as to what the collection has in store; other times, they are just plain wacky.

Balenciaga’s spring invite was — unfathomably — a real used leather wallet containing real French franc notes, a health security card, a photo of a pet cat, and credit cards as well as other things spilling out. Countless videos appeared on social media of surprised guests opening their “invite.”

One fashion insider exclaimed: “But how do you know how to get to the show?”

Valentino’s invitation was a smooth black cube that opened to have nothing inside but a QR code. While, Chanel’s was a card of Kristen Stewart’s face so big that it could not fit into letter boxes.

BARBARA BUI IS SMART

Low-key French designer Barbara Bui is a good example of how the pandemic affected the fashion industry — for better and for worse.

Many houses went digital during the lockdowns, opting to show a fashion film instead of staging a show, which was for many months prohibited. In this spring Paris season — like in Milan’s — the industry seems to be very much back to pre-pandemic runways, yet Bui’s was one of a spattering of collections that continued with the fashion film format.

It’s a smart move: Smaller houses like Bui’s have benefited from the new flexibility as runway collections are clearly much more expensive to produce.

The collection’s spring video featured a couple of lovers in a French country house seeking each other out and seemingly wearing each other’s clothes — a good theme for a co-ed fashion show.

The film’s use of light sat well with the fluidity of a loose white tuxedo suit on a bare chest, or a giant multicolored foulard thrown nonchalantly over the male model’s naked shoulder. A cobalt blue one-shoulder piece was set off by the male model’s metallic, androgynous nail polish.

Copyright © The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

AP

The U.S. Supreme Court is seen, Thursday, Feb. 8, 2024, in Washington. The U.S. Supreme Court has h...

Associated Press

Supreme Court decision on Trump’s election status could come Monday morning

A SCOTUS decision could come Monday in the case about whether Trump can be kicked off the ballot over his efforts to undo his 2020 defeat.

22 hours ago

Republican presidential candidate former UN Ambassador Nikki Haley poses for a selfie after speakin...

Associated Press

Nikki Haley wins D.C. Republican primary, her first 2024 victory

Nikki Haley has won the Republican primary in the District of Columbia, notching her first victory of the 2024 campaign.

22 hours ago

An Apache group that has fought to protect land it considers sacred from a copper mining project in...

Associated Press

A US appeals court ruling could allow mine development in central Arizona on land sacred to Apaches

An Apache group that has fought to protect land from a copper mining project in central Arizona suffered a significant blow.

1 day ago

On Friday, March 1, 2024, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration said yogurt sold in the U.S. can ma...

Associated Press

Eating yogurt may reduce risk of type 2 diabetes, FDA says

Eating at least two cups of yogurt a week might reduce the risk of type 2 diabetes, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration said.

1 day ago

Arizona will not approve new housing construction on the fast-growing edges of metro Phoenix that r...

Associated Press

Arizona Senate passes plan to manage rural groundwater, but final success is uncertain

A plan to manage rural groundwater passed the Arizona Senate amid concerns about the availability of sufficient water for future generations.

3 days ago

A woman pauses while shopping at a Kohl's store in Clifton, N.J., Jan. 26, 2024. On Thursday, Feb. ...

Associated Press

Federal Reserve’s preferred inflation gauge picked up last month in sign of still-elevated prices

An inflation gauge favored by the Federal Reserve increased in January, the latest sign that the slowdown in U.S. consumer price increases is occurring unevenly from month to month.

4 days ago

Sponsored Articles

...

Fiesta Bowl Foundation

The 51st annual Vrbo Fiesta Bowl Parade is excitingly upon us

The 51st annual Vrbo Fiesta Bowl Parade presented by Lerner & Rowe is upon us! The attraction honors Arizona and the history of the game.

(KTAR News Graphic)...

Boys & Girls Clubs

KTAR launches online holiday auction benefitting Boys & Girls Clubs of the Valley

KTAR is teaming up with The Boys & Girls Clubs of the Valley for a holiday auction benefitting thousands of Valley kids.

...

Day & Night Air Conditioning, Heating and Plumbing

Valley residents should be mindful of plumbing ahead of holidays

With Halloween in the rear-view and more holidays coming up, Day & Night recommends that Valley residents prepare accordingly.

Glitzy Valentino show sees Paris Fashion Week at fever pitch