New Asian American bakeries find bicultural sweet spot

Aug 25, 2021, 6:00 AM | Updated: 9:55 pm
Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021...

Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)

(AP Photo/Eric Risberg)

OAKLAND, Calif. (AP) — For some Asian Americans, the dim sum cookie at Sunday Bakeshop here will taste like childhood.

It looks like a typical sugar cookie except with sesame seeds on top. But bite into the creamy, red bean center and it’s reminiscent of the fried, filled sesame balls served at a Chinese dim sum restaurant.

The concoction is pastry chef Elaine Lau’s nod to her grandmother, who would often make them. The baked goods that Lau’s team churns out — like hojicha chocolate croissants and Chinese White Rabbit candy cookies — aren’t going to be found in any bakery in Asia. There’s an intrinsic American sensibility at the nearly 3-month-old shop.

“Talking to some of the Asian Americans and other people that have tried some of our pastries, we get a lot of comments where they’re just like… ‘Oh this took me back several years,’ when they were growing up,” said Lau, 35, who was born in Oakland.

“For us, it’s kind of nice we can evoke some positive memories and feelings with our pastries.”

From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate growing up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity.

Ingredients they found embarrassing as children are being blended with European or “traditional” American pastries into something new. Some of the bakers welcome the chance to dispel culinary and societal misconceptions, especially given months of anti-Asian hate.

The experience of being an immigrant kid in between two very different cultures is what inspired the name and concept behind Third Culture Bakery, a few miles away from Sunday Bakeshop, in Berkeley. Open since 2018, it’s the brainchild of husbands Wenter Shyu, 31, and Sam Butarbutar, 32. Nine months into their courtship, they decided to open a bakery together and expand Butarbutar’s mochi muffin business beyond wholesale and pop-ups. The mochi muffin, still a signature item, is influenced by Butarbutar’s Indonesian roots and made with California-grown mochiko rice flour.

The operation has blossomed, with two locations in Colorado and a second San Francisco Bay Area store planned. Their menu includes mochi brownies and butter mochi doughnuts with glazes like matcha, ube and black sesame.

Shyu said many non-Asian patrons have never been exposed to some of the ingredients.

“It’s a lot of educating. Even when you educate and share where it comes from, people are judging it. It’s a very mixed bag. It’s also very rewarding because then you get to see their reaction trying this new thing they’ve never had in their life,” he said.

Shyu recalls some awkward situations, such as one in May when Third Culture was featured on a Denver TV station as part of Asian American Pacific Islander Heritage Month. The finished segment included “Oriental music” that Shyu, who was born in Taiwan, described as “cringe-y and uncomfortable.”

“I told the news station, if you guys did a piece on Black History Month and added tribal African music, there would be an outrage,” Shyu said. “Somehow for Asian Americans, that’s OK. That’s the exact thing we’re trying to fight against.”

For these bakeries, integrating Asian flavor profiles isn’t a gimmick. It’s what feels natural and authentic, said Deuki Hong, 31, whose Sunday Family Hospitality Group launched Sunday Bakeshop, and who loves Lau’s outside-the-pastry-box thinking.

“When I was running a Korean barbecue, we were known also for corn cheese, a little melty side dish… She took that and was like, ‘I’m gonna make a pastry out of it,'” said Hong, co-author of “Koreatown: A Cookbook.” “Wow, this came from our conversation that was very personal to me and it also tastes really delicious.”

Rose Nguyen, a 34-year-old former nurse, switched careers and opened Rose Ave Bakery inside The Block Foodhall in Washington, D.C., in March 2020, just before a pandemic shutdown. Nguyen was peddling Instagrammable morsels like strawberry lychee rose donuts, ube cake and matcha chocolate cookies. She won over enough foodies to keep going with online orders until fully reopening this June.

Born in Rhode Island to Vietnamese immigrants, Nguyen said it sometimes hurt when, growing up, her white friends thought her food from home was weird or gross. So, it’s gratifying now to showcase Asian flavors unapologetically.

“It was never about trends or satisfying other people,” Nguyen said. “It’s just me, basically. The business goes hand in hand with who I am.”

As fixtures in their neighborhoods, these bakery owners all felt compelled to do something when racist attacks against Asians tied to the COVID-19 pandemic started. Third Culture Bakery raised donations at its locations to pay for and distribute 21,000 safety kits for Asian seniors. Sunday Bakeshop and Rose Ave Bakery have donated pastries and profits to anti-Asian hate organizations.

The bakers felt a disconnect between that hatred and the joyful connection that their food can make across cultures.

“It’s so unfortunate that it’s happening, and still happening, because people say they love Asian food and Asian American food,” Nguyen said. “Yet, they don’t even realize you love the food and don’t love the people.”

Older, traditional Asian bakeries started out as a means of replicating something immigrants missed back in their home country. The new bakeries’ bolder assertion of identity is a natural evolution, said Robert Ji-Song Ku, an Asian American studies professor at Binghamton University and author of “Dubious Gastronomy: The Cultural Politics of Eating Asian in the USA.”

Chefs like Roy Choi and David Chang came to fame in the early 2000s embracing their Korean heritage. But the baking world is still “a real frontier,” Ku said.

“It goes against stereotypes of Asians as math geeks. It’s sort of the artistic side of Asian American identity that’s often ignored,” Ku said. “They’re instead really trying to fuse things together — create this mixture.”

These first- and second-generation Asian American bakery owners seem passionate about bringing visibility to the Asian American community, which often feels invisible, Ku added.

They’re showing that an ube snickerdoodle or a black sesame muffin is as American as any apple pie.

“There’s nothing wrong with apple pie,” Hong said. “But there’s a lot more interesting things being done… there’s a lot of Asian creators and entrepreneurs, and gradually they’ll be more vocal.”

___ Terry Tang is a member of The Associated Press’ Race and Ethnicity team. Follow her on Twitter at https://twitter.com/ttangAP

Copyright © The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.


              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A man looks over a display case filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              This undated photo provided by Rose Ave Bakery shows the Washington, D.C. bakery's ube cake. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate growing up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. (Courtesy of Rose Ave Bakery)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Two women make their way into the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Corn cheese croissants are displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A Dim Sum Cookie is displayed at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A display counter is filled with mochi donuts and muffins at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              This undated photo provided by Rose Ave Bakery shows the Washington, D.C. bakery's ube cake. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate growing up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. (Courtesy of Rose Ave Bakery)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau holds a Dim Sum Cookie at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Three women sample their purchases at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A customer makes her way into the Sunday Bakeshop after it opens in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Pastry chef Elaine Lau poses at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              A selection of assorted mochi muffins appear at the Third Culture Bakery in Berkeley, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            
              Strawberry Pocky Cruffins are displayed on a tray at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)
            Pastry chef Elaine Lau creates a corn cheese croissant at the Sunday Bakeshop in Oakland, Calif., Thursday, Aug. 19, 2021. From ube cakes to mochi muffins, bakeries that sweetly encapsulate what it is to grow up Asian and American have been popping up more in recent years. Their confections are a delectable vehicle for young and intrepid Asian Americans to celebrate their dual identity. (AP Photo/Eric Risberg)

AP

A patient, center, is placed into an ambulance while being evacuated from Signature Healthcare Broc...
Associated Press

Fire at Massachusetts hospital forces some evacuations

BROCKTON, Mass. (AP) — A fire at a Massachusetts hospital’s electrical transformer forced an undetermined number of evacuations on Tuesday morning and power was shut off to the building for safety reasons, officials said. “We are removing some critically ill and injured patients” out of Signature Healthcare Brockton Hospital to other facilities, Brockton Fire Chief […]
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Associated Press

UK holds ceremony replete with tradition to consider coins

LONDON (AP) — A jury sat solemnly in a gilded hall in central London on Tuesday, presided over by a bewigged representative of the crown in flowing black robes, but there were no criminals in the dock. Britain’s coinage was on trial. In a ceremony that dates back to the 12th century, the jury filed […]
11 hours ago
In this photo supplied by the Mozambican Presidency, Mozambican President Filipe Nyusi, left, shake...
Associated Press

Mozambique’s extremist rebels kill aid worker in north

MAPUTO, Mozambique (AP) — Extremist rebels in Mozambique’s northern Cabo Delgado province have killed a worker for the international charity Doctors Without Borders, shortly after a former vice president of the organization was asked to produce a report into the humanitarian situation in the conflict-hit region. Mozambique’s Islamic extremist insurgency, which started in October 2017, […]
11 hours ago
A baby girl who was born under the rubble caused by an earthquake that hit Syria and Turkey receive...
Associated Press

Newborn, toddler saved from rubble in quake-hit Syrian town

JINDERIS, Syria (AP) — Residents in a northwest Syrian town discovered a crying infant whose mother appears to have given birth to her while buried underneath the rubble of a five-story apartment building leveled by this week’s devastating earthquake, relatives and a doctor said Tuesday. The newborn girl was found buried under the debris with […]
11 hours ago
This cover image released by W.W. Norton shows "A Hacker's Mind: How the Powerful Bend Society's Ru...
Associated Press

Review: Digital tech advances, AI spur hacking of society

“A Hacker’s Mind: How the Powerful Bend Society’s Rules, and How to Bend Them Back” by Bruce Schneier (W.W. Norton & Company) Hacking is universally understood as the exploitation of a software vulnerability by a malicious actor. But hacking encompasses oh, so much more. By gaming systems, it achieves outcomes for which they were not […]
11 hours ago
FILE - Beyonce accepts the award for best dance/electronic music album for "Renaissance" at the 65t...
Associated Press

Tickets for Beyoncé’s 1st concert of world tour sell out

STOCKHOLM (AP) — Tickets for the first concert of Beyoncé’s upcoming “Renaissance” world tour sold out Tuesday, and concert management group Live Nation said a second concert in Stockholm was added because of the high demand. The tour starts in Sweden in May and is scheduled to include stops in London, Paris, Barcelona, Toronto and […]
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New Asian American bakeries find bicultural sweet spot