Everything coming up flowers on Milan runway

Sep 20, 2012, 8:10 PM

Associated Press

MILAN (AP) – Everything is coming up flowers on the Milan runway.

Floral references during the second day of Milan Fashion Week womenswear previews on Thursday ranged from the graphic motif to romantic bouquets or jungle foliage.

It’s not a sexy season. Collections for next summer are more romantic than racy and sheer fabrics suggest more than they show.

The silhouette is loose and flowing _ with skirt lengths both baby-doll short and granny-dress long. Trousers, too, are wide with the 1960s palazzo pajama making a comeback. Sporty shorts and pedal pushers are often paired with feminine blousy tops. A pastel palate kept the looks demure, while gold, silver and bronze add flash.

Bows and ribbons lend romance to the season, cinching waistlines, gracing floppy hats or wrapping an ankle. But the flower grabs the headlines in most of the shows _ setting a wide range of moods.

PRADA

Miuccia Prada _ one of the fashion world’s most out-of-the-box thinkers _ for next summer takes apart the kimono to discover its most basic silhouette. Then, she puts it all back together again to come up with a full collection of imperial outfits.

The central motif of the new collection is a graphic flower, often with a bright red center, which appeared on bags, tops, dresses, wraps and eyewear.

Prada has reinterpreted the Japanese Geisha sandal complete with split-toe tabi sock, which she crafted from leather with a zipper up the back, suggesting they could be footwear in their own right.

The impact of the entire collection was otherworldly, a reflection of Prada’s reach for conceptual fashion where idea trumps fit. The kimono showed up as a wrap, a top tied neatly in the back, a skirt formed out of panels or just a simple tunic dress. Fabrics were shiny silk and satin.

Shoes were over the top, wedge and platform sandals, always worn with the tabi sock at times in contrasting gold and silver. The latest Prada palate includes soft pink and sage but the basic color scheme stuck to black, white and gray _ all the better to show off the flower emblem and highlight red accents.

The collection was decidedly warm weather, but Prada also devised wraps and three-quarter sleeved coats, often of fur, for chillier climes. Here too, the flower motif made the difference. The basic bag was a small summer shopper _ more for the boutique than market

EMPORIO ARMANI

Emporio Armani is Giorgio Armani’s second line aimed at a younger client, and that is just where the “maestro” was headed in his latest spring-summer collection.

Teenage models strolled down the runway in sweet pastel silk shorts, their curly hair brushing the shoulder of the matching tapered jacket. Ballerina flats tied in a demure silk ankle bow, dainty leather driving gloves, and a sporty pastel bucket bag completed the ingenue look.

In his show notes, the designer called his spring style “clean.”

Natural colors with touches of opaque gold and bronze underlined the down to earth feel of the collection.

There is a good deal of layering in the Emporio collection, with fluid knit-wear, silk tops and jackets with small shoulders and a barely marked waist combining with either a short skirt or a pair of soft straight pants gathered at the bottom, to create a well put together, young look.

BLUGIRL

Romance is in the air at Blugirl. It’s in the sheer fabrics, silken ribbons and golden lockets.

But if all that gives the impression of pastoral innocence, not so quick.

In fashion notes, the label that targets a younger audience said the collection was inspired by the “ethereal dreamy girls” in the photography of David Hamilton, whose best-known work features grainy images of young women, often nude or semi-nude.

Designer Anna Molinari’s collection is as long on lace, organza and eyelet materials, as it is short on undergarments.

Molinari layered sheer over sheer, animal prints under plain, creating a romantic effect without ever really covering up. Underneath she fitted silken culotte panties with lace trim and nothing more. Silk ribbons were tied prettily around the waist, or around floppy brim hats.

The silhouette was loose, but lengths varied from short skirts and culottes to maxi-dresses. Pleats and ruffles added shape and volume. Shades were decidedly pastel, until evening hit, and then Molinari turned to gold sequins and beading.

The look was completed with high-heeled lace-up leather booties in colors ranging from pastels to gold.

MAX MARA

Whether in leopard prints or safari wear, the Max Mara woman is the hunter not the hunted.

The Max Mara collection evokes the jungle, where foliage prints provide natural camouflage for the animalistic spirit ready to spring _ a mood captured in curve-hugging dresses in stripes of spotted and floral prints.

The silhouette is both free, with loose blouses of light fabric, and controlled, with fitted skirts that often finish below the knee. Safari touches are present throughout, including large pockets, rolled-up sleeves and button tabs on shoulders.

Blouson tops have large, lightweight hoods, for taking quick cover to scurry away, unrecognized.

In keeping with the theme, the collection’s palette is rooted in earthy tones like camel and olive green, complemented by leopard, floral and sometimes plaid prints as well as icier tones of blue and green.

(Copyright 2012 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.)

World News

(Photo by John Phillips/Getty Images for BoF VOICES)...
Associated Press

Vivienne Westwood, influential fashion maverick, dies at 81

Vivienne Westwood, an influential fashion maverick who played a key role in the punk movement, died Thursday at 81.
1 month ago
FILE - British Prime Minister Boris Johnson speaks during his first Cabinet meeting flanked by his ...
Associated Press

Rishi Sunak: UK’s ex-Treasury chief gets his shot at PM job

LONDON (AP) — Rishi Sunak ran for Britain’s top job and lost. Then he got another shot — and the chance to say “I told you so.” The former U.K. Treasury chief was runner-up to Liz Truss in the contest to replace the scandal-plagued Boris Johnson as Conservative Party leader and prime minister. But Truss […]
3 months ago
Britain's Prime Minister Liz Truss addresses the media in Downing Street in London, Thursday, Oct. ...
Associated Press

Truss quits, but UK’s political and economic turmoil persist

LONDON (AP) — British Prime Minister Liz Truss quit Thursday after a tumultuous and historically brief term marred by economic policies that roiled financial markets and a rebellion in her political party that obliterated her authority. After just 45 days in office, Truss became the third Conservative prime minister to be toppled in as many […]
3 months ago
People receive medical treatment at the scene of Russian shelling, in Kyiv, Ukraine, Monday, Oct. 1...
Associated Press

Russia unleashes biggest attacks in Ukraine in months

KYIV, Ukraine (AP) — Russia retaliated Monday for an attack on a critical bridge by unleashing its most widespread strikes against Ukraine in months, a lethal barrage that smashed civilian targets, knocked out power and water, shattered buildings and killed at least 14 people. Ukraine’s Emergency Service said nearly 100 people were wounded in the […]
4 months ago
This illustration made available by Johns Hopkins APL and NASA depicts NASA's DART probe, upper rig...
Associated Press

NASA spacecraft smashes into asteroid for defense test

A NASA spacecraft rammed an asteroid at blistering speed Monday in an unprecedented dress rehearsal for the day a killer rock menaces Earth.
4 months ago
Associated Press

At least 9 killed as Iran protests over woman’s death spread

DUBAI, United Arab Emirates (AP) — Clashes between Iranian security forces and protesters angry over the death of a 22-year-old woman in police custody have killed at least nine people since the violence erupted over the weekend, according to a tally Thursday by The Associated Press. The scope of Iran’s ongoing unrest, the worst in […]
4 months ago

Sponsored Articles

(Pexels Photo)...

Sports gambling can be fun for adults, but it’s a dangerous game for children

While adults may find that sports gambling is a way to enhance the experience with more than just fandom on the line, it can be a dangerous proposition if children get involved in the activity.
...
Fiesta Bowl Foundation

Celebrate 50 years of Vrbo Fiesta Bowl Parade magic!

Since its first production in the early 1970s, the Vrbo Fiesta Bowl Parade presented by Lerner & Rowe has been a staple of Valley traditions, bringing family fun and excitement to downtown Phoenix.
...
Day & Night Air Conditioning, Heating and Plumbing

Prep the plumbing in your home just in time for the holidays

With the holidays approaching, it's important to know when your home is in need of heating and plumbing updates before more guests start to come around.
Everything coming up flowers on Milan runway