What it was like to visit the Berlin Wall

I visited a divided Germany years ago. The East was dull and machine gun-toting soldiers were everywhere.

The West built towers opposite East Berlin guard towers, perhaps 40 yards across the barrier. Probably a propaganda stunt; it was an effective one.

I climbed the tower on the West side and saw two East German soldiers holding machine guns. We looked at each other.

Most likely overcome by a fit of whimsy (and no doubt feeling entirely protected by that invisible international border), I waved at them.

I will never forget their instant reaction: They both instantly ducked and hid.

I’m convinced I know why, and the explanation is revealing: they were afraid. They are holding the machine guns and I am unarmed and they are afraid. They were, I am convinced, afraid that the wave might be seen by their superiors and that they might be suspected of some sort of collaboration.

I have never forgotten that incident and remember it graphically every time the Berlin Wall comes up in conversation.